From Farm to Table: The Journey of a Bottle of Wine from a Boutique Vineyard in India

From Farm to Table: The Journey of a Bottle of Wine from a Boutique Vineyard in India

There's so much that goes into making the wine that is so eagerly swirled, sniffed and sipped in increasingly large quantities across the country. Indian wines haves made their place on people's palate, turning vineyard hopping into a pleasurable pastime that doesn't require a visa and an expensive airplane ticket. But right alongside the big, glitzy Indian winemakers is another wine culture slowly finding it's place, that of the boutique winery that makes small batches of carefully, lovingly made wine. Director of Vallonne, the country's first such vineyard traces their journey on their 10th anniversary.

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Journalist, director at Vallonne Vineyards
Aditi Pai
Aditi has been writing for India's leading news magazine for the past 14 years but between stories on food, society trends and interesting personalities, she spends her time watching the vineyards bear fruit, joins the winemaker in conducting wine appreciation sessions, engages with guests and joins her father and brother in giving every visitor at her family-run Vallonne Vineyards a memorable and enriching experience.

Step into Another World

Time stands still here. You can wake up to mynahs feasting on figs and grapes, birds chirping joyously, hold the cottony clouds as they waft in with the first rain showers and follow the sun as he sets off on his journey home, behind a lofty hill. In the tranquil surroundings of Vallonné Vineyards, which we proudly state is India’s premier boutique winery, you come alive to nature and its many wonders.

The Making of a Vineyard

Finding this scenic spot was a labour of love. More than 10 years ago, my father, Shailendra Pai, made 40 trips Nashik to look for land until he fell in love with this place—at first sight!

It was breathtakingly gorgeous—sloping land with tall grass that melted into the calm waters of a lake with three distinctly shaped hills forming the perfect backdrop.

Seven years after we started making wines here with an all-French set-up, we built a beautiful little house bathed in yellow with a sloping roof and a fantastic view of the landscape. Guests started pouring in to sample and buy our wines which were fast being reckoned as high quality Indian wines.

The surroundings were captivating and people wanted to stay and eat. The wine experience could only be enhanced with comfortable hospitality. So, we transformed this beautiful home into a boutique vineyard resort with four rooms that cradle a large living area that offers expansive views of the picturesque landscape. After all, they say, that wine nurtures conversations and friendships. So we created an area where guests could meet and mingle over glasses of wine or sit in cozy nooks with book or board games.

The Vallonne Stay Experience

We are nestled in a tiny village in Igatpuri where we have more cattle strolling on the tar roads than cars zooming across. There are no traffic sounds; no noise and none of the trappings of city life. Except modern comforts.

Vallonné’s boutique four-room hotel is a slice of a bygone era with vintage furniture sourced from Portuguese homes in Goa, handcrafted upholstery and handloom curtains and even lampshades with imprints of vine leaves.

We spent months picking and putting together the space. In times when the wabi sabi philosophy is defining creative works, this décor with its little imperfections, fits in perfectly. We roped in Forest Essentials to get our toiletries and brought in coffee from a women’s cooperative in Coorg. We used little patches of land amidst the vineyards to grow basil, chili, papayas, tomatoes and seasonal vegetables.

As they say anything wonderful thing is more beautiful when you allow it to soak in. So, we’ve kept away modern distractions like television and wi-fi and have made a little reading corner where people can browse through wine magazines or read fiction and biographies. Giving it an old world connect we have board games like Monopoly, Scrabble, Pictionary, Jenga and Battleship. The manicured lawns are inviting when you want to laze or watch the children scamper with their games.

Wines are best enjoyed with food but breaking away from the conventional European food-and-wine pairings, we brought in South East Asian cuisine with noted restaurant chain Malaka Spice. The non-air conditioned restaurant brings in ample sunshine and breeze and has a deck that offers vistas of the vineyards and mountains. The coconut curries, stir-fry and herb-infused sauces, inspired by the street fare in the Far East, we discovered, complements the aromas and flavours in the wines, be it the delicate floral notes in the whites or the deeper fruit and chocolate hints in the reds.

An experience here begins with a detailed wine appreciation in the underground winery. We built the cellar 20 feet below ground to keep it naturally cool and insulated. The session takes guests through the tank hall and barrel cellar where the team explains the winemaking process from berry-to-bottle and wraps it up with tasting of five selected wines. If it’s your first time with wines, the winemaker enthusiastically takes you through the ritual of holding the glass by the stem, smelling, swirling and sipping the wine.

An Innovative Approach to Making Wine

Our philosophy all along has been to focus not just on quality but also on innovation. There’s no fun in being a me-too after all! So, we introduced several firsts in the Indian wine market—a reserve Malbec that brings out the vibrant characteristics of the Argentinean grape, a refreshing rosé made from the robust cabernet sauvignon, unconventional blends of syrah and merlot and a delectable and much-loved dessert wine, the vin de passerillage (VDP) made along the lines of a straw wine.

You need to see the VDP being made to treasure every bottle you have. We get 150 people to painstakingly tie bunches of matured grapes in straw huts. These berries are then sun dried for a month until they turn into raisins. Every such berry then gives one drop of juice that has the perfectly balanced sugars and a delicious viscous texture.

Good packaging is the cornerstone of marketing a good product so we have each label designed to showcase the elegance of the wine. The VDP comes in a beautiful slender bottle with a hand sketch that highlights the grapes that are used. Some of the other labels depict the stunning south sloping vineyards where we grow our grapes. This year, we are celebrating 10 years of making wines with a special edition Cabernet Sauvignon that proudly showcases our winemaking style. We have made just 374 bottles of this wine which is a collectible with a classy wood case.

A Place That Grows on You

Our little property over 10 acres is a conscious step back in time. It blends modern wine making technology and techniques with a charming resort that is reminiscent of family-run vineyards that dot the European countryside, all presented with good old Indian hospitality. It’s a place that, like wine, grows on you with time. With clean air and sounds of crickets and birds, it’s perfect to reconnect with loved ones as you watch the miracles of nature, rediscover yourself on long walks through the woods and savour the place at leisure. It is in these little moments that you let the magic unfold.

Wine Recommendations

Wines Aditi enjoys and recommends:

  • Riesling
    Whether it comes from Germany (it's original home), Italy, France, New Zealand or India, the Riesling is highly aromatic which makes it a good pick for any occasion. It's floral, almost perfumed and highly versatile with crisp acidity that makes it refreshing. The Vallonne Riesling brings to mind a bunch of delicately scented white flowers with a hint of fruits like peach and pear. It pairs beautifully with fish, salads, cheese, pulaos and creamy curries

  • Rosé
    In Mumbai weather, there's nothing better than a glass of rosé! it's the perfect sundowner drink, an ideal match with salads at lunch and a great companion for an evening soiree. While every grape variety brings its own character to a rosé, at Vallonne, we use the cabernet sauvignon grape which is robust, vibrant, fruity and has a hint of sharp spice all rolled into one making it a burst of flavours in the mouth. It's delicate and refreshing with notes of cherry, plum and green pepper. Pair this with cheese, seafood, pasta, salads.

  • Merlot
    It's among the first wines we ever made at Vallonne and it continues to be the most popular. With plum, cherry, chocolate, tobacco and clove flavours, it's my pick when pairing wine with food. We age it in French oak for over a year which makes the tannins velvety and mellow.

  • Vin de passerillage
    Sugar and spice, and all things nice --that's what comes to mind when I pick up a bottle of our dessert wine. But when you join us in making our vin de passerillage, you are sure to treasure it even more. We sun dry handpicked chenin blanc grapes in specially built straw huts for a month until they turn into raisins with the ideal balance of sugar and acidity. Each berry gives just one drop of juice! End the meal with chocolate, panacotta or cheese with the VDP.
Find out about Vallonne wines and make reservations at vallonnevineyards.com or follow them on Instagram.
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