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Pondicherry Heritage and the French Quarters

Popularly regarded as the French Riviera of India, the French quarters is located on the Coramandel coastline along the Bay of Bengal. A walk down the French quarters will teleport you back to 18th century with maze-like criss-cross lanes, vibrant colourful buildings and vivid wall art; a true testament to colonial French heritage and architecture.

As the name suggests, White Town was home to the French population back in the day during their occupation of this seaside town, whereas Black Town was confined to the Indian population. This French connection colliding with Indian values add a unique characteristic to Pondicherry. While Pondicherry as a whole covers the coastal areas of about 500 square meters, A round around French Quarters can be covered in a total of 30 minutes on a bicycle.

P.S. Don’t get thrown off by the name Puducherry. It is the official name since 2006. The locals popularly refer to it as Pondi.

Best time to visit
October to March is the best known time to visit. The weather is much cooler.

November- December is quite festive with colourful lights draped on the streets and buildings in celebration of Christmas and New Year.

April to September is usually hot, dry and humid with temperatures rising up to almost 40 degrees Celsius.

Local Culture
The French quarters is an effortless coming together of French nationals and local Tamils who have lived together for years and this goes across fashion, food, language and architecture.

The famous 300-year-old Lord Ganesh (Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar) temple is located at the centre of White Town.

How to Get to White Town

Located 150 kilometres from Chennai and 300 kilometres from Bangalore, Pondicherry is accessible by road and rail.

By Rail
Pondicherry railway station is located very close to White Town. Overnight trains from all major destinations from South India are available to reach Pondicherry.

By Road
State-run non-AC buses from Chennai to Pondicherry are available at half an hour intervals from Koyembedu Bus Stand, Chennai, for not more than Rs. 200 per person. Alternatively, you can also take Air Conditioned buses from Thiruvanmiyur in Chennai to Pondicherry (most of these buses are routed through Mahabalipuram).

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: If you are up for a scenic 3-hour drive then follow the seaside East Coast Road to reach White Town.


By Air
The closest airport from Pondicherry is Chennai International Airport. Upon reaching Chennai, you can either take a metro train from the airport to Koyembedu or to Thiruvanmiyur. From there, a bus to Pondicherry. Get yourself a rental scooter/cycle/car to go around the French quarters comfortably. Rental for scooters starts at Rs. 100 per day and cars at Rs. 800 per day. Being a Union Territory, it is easy on your wallet to fill fuel.

Things to Do in Pondicherry: Tourist Hotspots

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Amongst the many things White Town has to offer, here is a quick guide to the most sought after attractions --

1. Art Galleries

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A showcase of French heritage through magnificent French-Indo art.

Aura Café, a sea-facing gallery on the Promenade, offers an exquisite collection of Shri Aurobindo Ashram in Auroville. It also serves food and hosts events.

Tasmai, located on Advocate Chinna Thambi Street, is a visual art treat offering insights on contemporary art and culture. It is popularly known to connect Pondicherry culture with the world

Kalinka Art Gallery on St. Lauren Street displays contemporary art of Indian and International artists. Tourists often find this place charming.

Aurodhan Art Gallery displays tribal and folk art, contemporary art and also promotes music, yoga, dance and literature. Head to Francois Martin Street for a wholesome experience on culture and art.

2. Aurobindo Ashram

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A quaint villa where Sri Aurobindo and the Mother once lived, is now converted as their final resting place. Their samadi placed on the courtyard under lush green trees is always decorated with beautiful flowers. This part of this Ashram is a no-talking zone. People from all over the world come here to pay their respects and mediate. If you are on a soul searching journey in White Town, this is the place to visit. Children below age 3 are not allowed inside.

3. Shopping in White Town

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French quarters is a hub to shopping spots like Cane Lab Design, La Maison Rose, Casablanca, Janaki, Cluny Embroidery Centre, Kalki, Living Art Lifestyles and Yaka Home Design. They offer a wide range of uniquely designed architecture, home decor and Indo-French art. If you are backpacking with a limited budget then steer clear of these shopping hubs as they might fall really heavy on your pockets but they offer great inspiration on creative design.

4. Goubert Avenue

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The Promenade forms the crown of these French Quarters. A long stretch of rocky beach on one side, bustling cafes and heritage sites on the other, the Promenade is the most famous tourist spot in the French quarters. Vehicles are not allowed on this road post 7 PM which gives a lot of space for people to walk about and enjoy the sunset away from traffic and noise. As you walk down the Promenade, you will find the French War Memorial, Greco Roman architecture Notre Dame Agnes Lady of Angels Church built by Napoleon III in 1855, the French Consulate, the pier, and the huge Gandhi Statue at the centre. Though entry to the pier is restricted, it offers a picturesque sight.

5. Dumas Street

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Dumas Street is widely considered as the most scenic street of White Town. If you are visiting White Town between May and December, Dumas Street is covered with Bougainvillea flowers on both sides of the road. Bright pink flowers against the backdrop of yellow French buildings look straight out of a painting, no matter which side you look. The famous 17th century French Dumas heritage guesthouse is located here. Known as the oldest heritage villa in the French Quarters, Dumas guesthouse attracts travellers from all over the world.

6. Bharati Park

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Located at the centre of White Town, near the Raj Bhavan (Governor’s residence), is the Bharati Park. It offers a place of solace in the midst of the French Quarters. If you start your day walking around White Town, make your last stop at Bharati Park. Well maintained, lush green and quiet, Bharati Park offers you respite from the heat and humidity. Aayi Mandapam sits at the heart of the Park that dates back to 19th century. Children can play in the pond whereas adults can find a spot under the trees to spread out picnic mats. The park is open to the public from 6 am to 9 pm on all days.

Best Deals on a Stay in White Town

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One main attraction to staying in the White Town is the opportunity to stay in French boutique hotels and home stays. If you plan your trip well in advance, you might be lucky to get great offers at some incredible stay options. Here is a beginners list to get started while looking for comfortable and neat accommodation

Airbnb Deals

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With almost 120 options on Airbnb alone, you will be spoilt for choice. A majority of houses on Airbnb are a beautiful combination of French-Tamil aesthetics. An entire villa, or a room in a villa, or a private apartment, overlooking the sea or overlooking the French Quarters, you name it and you will find it on Airbnb. Prices range from Rs. 700 a night for a room to Rs. 5000 plus for an entire place. Make sure you book in advance during the holiday season, else they disappear in the blink of an eye.

Botique Hotel Deals

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If you're looking to stay amidst authentic French residence, then White Town has a lot to offer. Here is a list of quintessential French hotels.

De L'orient: Located on Rue Romain Rolland, this French mansion dates back to the 18th century. De L’orient, previously known as Instruction Publique was the French Department of Education. Later acquired by Francis Wacziarg, a Polish national who fell in love with then French quarters, rebuilt the Department into this beautiful French mansion that allows tourists to stay.

Villa Helena: A colonial heritage guesthouse that offers an authentic charm of the old French chapters. Located on Bussy street, Villa Helena is a five-minute walk from the Promenade. A 19th-century mansion was a women’s clinic back in the day. With a perfectly serene and lush green courtyard, Villa Helena offers a peaceful stay at the centre of the French quarters

Le Dupleix: A perfect blend of modern and contemporary French architecture, La Dupleix was once the house of the last French Mayor of Pondicherry. Now it functions as a heritage hotel situated just 400 meters from the rocky Promenade beach

La Closerie: Adorned with colonial furniture, La Colserie is a fusion of French-Tamil styles that take you through the journey of the colonial era located on the Promenade Beach

Villa Shanti: Located at the heart of White Town, Villa Shanti is awarded for its food and amazing décor. Then 19th-century townhouse is now a restaurant known for its organic food. With modern French architecture and craftsmanship, Villa Shanti brings to you a wholesome experience for best accommodation and food

Where to Eat in White Town

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Le Café – Sitting on the rocky side of the Promenade, you are momentarily transported to a European city. The waves hitting the Café elevates the mood even further. Le Café is a popular seaside spot as it is open round the clock. Visit this any time of the day, or night, it will ensure that you always come back for a second serving. Best known for hot chocolate by the sea, what else could one ask for. Cost for two: minimum Rs. 500.

Café des Arts – A quiet bohemian café located on Suffren Street is home to the most authentic French food in White Town. Dating back to 19th century with a garden sitting, Café des Arts offers mouth-watering food, best known for waffles, omelettes, and sandwiches. Cost for two: minimum Rs. 800.

Bakers Street – A popular French bakery located on MG Road. They offer a whole range of French pastries, chocolates, baked goodies and more. Best known for croissant, cheesecakes, burgers and pizza. Cost for two: minimum Rs. 500.

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Domus - Located on Rue Suffren Street provides vegetarian and healthy food options, best known for their European dishes like salad thali, a fresh sandwich and gourmandise. Make sure you take cash as they don’t accept cards. They also sell antique paintings and lamps curated by Claude Dalmais, a French proprietor. Cost for two: minimum Rs. 400

Madame Shantes Café – A rooftop seafood joint that offers Continental and Indian cuisine. While their service might be slow, take your time to soak in the aerial view of the French quarters. Cost for two: minimum Rs. 700.

Satsang – Owned by a French ex-pat, the café offers French and Italian cuisine. Located on Rue Labourdonnais, they have a good outdoor garden seating that adds to the aesthetics of the place. Satsang is best known for steaks and pasta. Cost for two: minimum Rs. 1000

Coromandel Café – Hosted in a French villa La Maison Rose, Coromandel Café is the hottest new place in White Town. The menu comes with a twist – European cuisine with an Indian touch much like how White Town itself is a blend of Indo-French collusion. They are best known for pizzas, calamari, cheesecakes and cocktails. Cost for two: minimum Rs. 1000 without alcohol. Cost of a pint of beer is Rs. 100.

Ajantha Sea View Hotel – Ajantha might not have much to its name in terms of food but it is located at the ideal spot on the Promenade. To wrap your day in White Town, find a table at the balcony of Ajantha Sea View Hotel for a pint of beer to catch the sun dip into the sea.

Apart from the above mentioned cafés, there are multiple local Tamil outlets that offer dosas with chicken/mutton/fish curry. Motta dosa (egg dosa) in Pondicherry is to die for!

For the revellers, you could save a little extra on the spirits as its priced much cheaper than your major cities.

Bonus: Insider Tip for the Best White Town Experience from a Frequent Traveller

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Keep an eye out for posters and flyers at every café and tourist hotspot for incredibly unique and fun events round the year. You can also challenge yourself for a fun treasure hunt and find the graffiti artist Tona’s work in nooks and corners of Pondicherry.

From our editorial team

Always Take Along a Medical Kit

As Pondicherry is a seaside town, it might be possible that anyone can get ill. Even a little cold can ruin your trip and that's obviously no one wants. So It's always better to keep one small medical kit with all necessary medicines and bandages. A person who is sick will not be able to enjoy the scenes and it will create problem for others too. So always take precautions and keep the medical kit with you. The tip is not for only this trip, it's for all the trip plans you make.